Sunday dinner: America's Test Kitchen

I don’t think it’s any secret that I find almost all of the programming on the Food Network to be really, really terrible. Their new shows just get dumber and dumber and less and less useful. It feels like they’ve completely sacrificed culinary sensibility and education for personality, and whoever decides what kinds of personalities make the cut has tastes diametrically opposed to my own.

So I’m very glad that the local cable provider has picked up PBS’s Create network so I can watch interesting, talented people cook food and teach me about it along the way. Charisma levels may vary, and not every show is a gem, but I can usually find something smart and useful to watch. (Any network that gives Eric Ripert air time is aces in my book.)

My favorite program on Create’s admittedly irregular schedule is America’s Test Kitchen, which is an extension of the magazine, Cook’s Illustrated. (Gourmet is dead, but advertising-free Cook’s Illustrated is still going strong. I’m just saying.) The television version has all of strengths of the magazine – useful information developed with rigor and standards – with the added bonus of just enough personality. There’s none of the toothy mugging that makes Food Network programming largely unwatchable; there’s just smart, likable people who are sincerely enthusiastic about food.

The idea behind the magazine and the show is to develop the best possible versions of popular home recipes. And I have to say, their success rate is very, very high based on the recipes I’ve tried. (I grew up in Cincinnati and ate more chili than burgers, and their Cincinnati chili recipe is spot-on.) There are also segments comparing products like chocolate, cheeses, jarred sauces and the like, and equipment ratings where they test and compare the usefulness of various kitchen products like knives and ricers. I don’t think I’ve ever watched a show and not come away wanting to try one of the recipes or knowing more about kitchen tools and preparation techniques. There’s more good stuff in a half an hour than there is in an entire day of Food Network dribble.

The master of ceremonies is Christopher Kimball, founder of Cook’s Illustrated and the resident crank. He would never be hired by the current Food Network regime because he’s caustic, not particularly telegenic, and unapologetically smart. He’s a culinary curmudgeon, not in the self-congratulatory, bad-boy way of Anthony Bourdain, but in the sense of someone who doesn’t have any patience for bad food but has the determination and resources to try and make it better. His co-hosts are all appealing to varying degrees, and they treat Kimball with the kind of wistful indulgence you reserve for a grumpy, funny uncle, which is exactly what Kimball seems to be.

Friday nattering

At The Beat, Heidi MacDonald rounds up the discussion of the New York Times Graphic Books Bestsellers list. I have to admit that I don’t really see why these lists are any more problematic or opaque in their methodology than any of the other sales rankings. I always assumed that the odd or counter-intuitive products that sometimes show up on the lists were more a function of the fact that there are 30 slots posted weekly than of the way the entrails came out of the goat or how the 30-sided die landed on Friday morning.

I guess what I’m saying is that just about all of these bestseller lists seem at least partly suspect, random, or susceptible to manipulation. With its greater frequency and wider scope, I at least find the Times lists suspect, random, and susceptible to manipulation in ways that are a little more interesting than the monthly versions.

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Has Barnes & Noble hired a new graphic novel buyer? I stopped at the local store during lunch yesterday and was surprised at the number of unusual suspects present on the shelves. I don’t think I’ve ever seen Gantz in a chain bookstore before.

As a side note, have you ever been to a bookstore and seen a theoretically sealed-for-your-protection title that actually had its plastic wrap intact?

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This week’s episode of The Big Bang Theory was hilarious. Penny accompanied the geeks to a comic shop. I particularly loved the bit where she innocently tried to buy a Spider-Man comic for her nephew. I think they should do an episode where Sara Gilbert’s Leslie is revealed to be a hardcore fujoshi, adding another layer of conflict to her acrimonious relationship with Sheldon.

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I absolutely appreciate Bryan Fuller’s desire to finish the story he meant to tell in the wonderful Pushing Daisies. I don’t think many of the things that made the show so special will translate to a comics page, though. Comic timing and chemistry made up a huge chunk of the show’s appeal. I’d still buy them if they added those greeting-card chips that would allow me to hear Olive Snook bursting into song.

(There used to be online comics featuring the characters, but ABC seems to have removed them.)

Knifings

I just realized that I haven’t really said anything about the current season of Top Chef, my favorite competitive reality show. Since the season is about to conclude, I should probably get around to that. Here are some largely random thoughts:

  • The new judge, Toby Young, actually makes me miss Gail Simmons. He doesn’t make me miss Ted Allen, because Young has a lot of the same flaws as Allen. It seems like Young is trying to be the culinary equivalent of Simon Cowell, but Young’s pop-culture references are strained and self-indulgent, and his criticisms are seldom on point. (“Pablo Escolar…” He actually said that in a room full of people with knives.) He’s trying too hard to be outrageous and cutting, and I’d settle for concise and purposeful. Points must go to the editors for showing what I believe to be Padma Lakshmi rolling her eyes every time Young opens his mouth and physically recoiling when she remembers that she’s seated next to him.
  • It took an awfully long time for any of the contestants to make a strong positive or negative impression on me, which is fine. There’s always that early span of a show of this type when it’s too crowded to latch onto anyone unless they’re deliriously charming or completely egregious.
  • That said, I’ve become utterly charmed with Carla. She’s outgoing and really weird, and in recent episodes, she’s actually been allowed to demonstrate the culinary abilities that presumably got her on to the show in the first place. And for anyone disappointed over the knifing of the season’s first comeback kid, Ariane, they got to see Carla rally. I’m also quite taken with Fabio, with his calculated-to-charm broken English and the cheerful derision he delivers during interviews.
  • I’ve also come to dislike Leah intensely, though I usually try and resist the urge to dislike contestants because the editors and producers want me to do so. Really, though, has there ever been a contestant so drenched in flop sweat for so long? (I did like Jamie, though I could see the fairness of her recent elimination. By my viewing, Jaime’s dish was apparently actively unpleasant, while Leah’s was just blah, which seems like a greater lesser culinary sin.) I think I’m supposed to dislike Stefan in the same way I was supposed to dislike Marcel and Hung, but I don’t mind him. He made clothes for Jamie’s stuffed animal, which goes a long way, and he seems to confine his obnoxious behavior to actual competition. Hung and Marcel were obnoxious all the time.
  • Eric Ripert is dreamy. That is all.
  • Oh, and speaking of food, Chris Mautner saves me the trouble of reviewing Carol Lay’s The Big Skinny: How I Changed My Fattitude by covering everything I might have wanted to say about it over at Robot 6.

    I actually watch a lot of TV

    I keep meaning to mention this, but my mind is like a sieve, and since it just aired last night, I thought I’d strike while the iron was less cold than usual. I don’t watch many situation comedies, but I really recommend The Big Bang Theory on CBS.

    It’s about two big science geeks who live across the hall from a hot blonde. That premise sounds deadly, but the show is really, really funny, and all of the characters are endearing and hold their own. I initially stopped on it while channel surfing because I recognized Johnny Galecki, an actor I’ve always liked, and I’ve come to really admire Jim Parsons as the brilliant, totally socially inept Sheldon and the improbably named Kaley Cuoco as Penny, the sexy, strong-willed neighbor.

    I heard the first season was a lot dumber than what’s currently airing, so I’m glad I came late to the party. The dialogue is great. The jokes are entirely character-driven but often laugh-out-loud funny at the same time. That seems to be a really difficult thing to pull off, but the show’s writers manage it, and manage it consistently.

    I also watch too much television

    I was watching the DVD of the first season of Dexter over the weekend, and I enjoyed it for the most part. I like the way the writers and producers have opened the story up for serialization, and I like some of the character work. I think TV Lt. LaGuerta is interesting in a different way. Her perniciously incompetent persona of the book was amusing but not sustainable, and the learning curve the TV writers have given her works better in the long run.

    I’m now fully convinced that I’m supposed to hate Dexter’s sister, Debra, though I hate her TV incarnation for different reasons than I did book Debra. In the book, she’s whiny and entitled and selfish. In the TV series, she’s whiny and lethally stupid and the actress reminds me of Lori Petty, and I thought we flushed that thespian trend out of the entertainment industry in the early 1990s, because Lori Petty was so damned irritating. Michael C. Hall is just right as Dexter, as I expected, though there really isn’t anything he can do to patch over the holes in the character’s conception aside from be creepily charming. TV Doakes talks too much, and he ends up reminding me of about 275 other hard-assed cops.

    Julie Benz is fine as Rita. I think I was in the minority in liking her work on Buffy, and I think her undercurrent of crazy really works for this particular character. Unfortunately, the scenes with Rita play out like mid-level Lifetime movies about single moms coming off of an abusive marriage and/or being deceived by the new men in their lives, and there’s a weird contrast between those scenes and the show’s crime content. I’m sure there’s supposed to be, but it’s contrast instead of counterpoint. The violence and the domesticity don’t interact so much as they just sort of sit side by side.

    And I noticed something about the set design that’s probably too nitpicky to even mention, but that’s never stopped me before. There’s always a design sensibility in evidence in every set the show employs. Instead of looking like Rita’s house, Rita’s house looks like a designer’s idea of what the home of a single mother coming off an abusive marriage would look like, if that makes any sense. At one point, a character says about a set that “You can tell a bachelor lived here.” And no, not really, but you can tell that a designer wanted very badly for you to think that a bachelor lived here and strenuously employed an aesthetic towards selling that, which isn’t the same as evoking a space that makes you think a bachelor lived there.

    I’m not quite sure how a designer could subtract that sensibility from his or her work, to be honest, but I’ve seen it happen enough. It was a weird thing to notice, to be honest. It wasn’t too distracting, but it stuck with me.

    Upcoming 10/1/2008

    A theme has emerged: this seems to be “Legitimately Charming Whimsy Day.”

    First of all, there’s the return of Pushing Daisies tonight at 8 p.m. Plot about people who can talk to dead people? Check. Awesome Broadway divas in the cast? Check. Fabulous, witty scripts that still manage to create genuine sentiment? Check.

    (For counterpoint, the 9 p.m. hour offers “Colossally Irritating Whimsy Day” in the form of Kenley on Project Runway. I first few garments seemed cute to me, but now they’re just obstinately redundant, and her attitude is as off-putting as her bangs. I fervently hope she gets aufed.)

    On the comics front, Drawn & Quarterly shows everyone how whimsy should be done with two new arrivals.

    First up is the third volume of Tove Jansson’s Moomin strips, which are international treasures. It’s just that simple.

    Second is the follow-up to Aya, Aya of Yop City, by Marguerite Abouet and Clément Oubrerie. It picks up with the lives of Abouet’s endearing cast of young people from the Ivory Coast of the 1970s, and I can’t wait to get my hands on it.

    I can’t even bring myself to pay too much attention to the rest of the list. There are already two books that I’ll happily buy in hard cover, and that seems like bounty enough for one week.

    Better Eats

    Lyle Masaki gives me a reason to believe that my interest in the programming of the Food Network is not entirely dead. It’s about time someone there started talking about sustainable sources, and I’m not surprised that it’s Alton Brown doing it.

    I also have to agree with Lyle that The Next Food Network Star is more of a peek behind the curtain than I ever wanted. Why not just show eight weeks of focus groups with target demographics? Over the weekend, my partner and I were wondering what happened to the last next Food Network star:

    “Following months of speculation, [Gourmet Next Door Amy] Finley revealed in May 2008 that she had voluntarily turned down the opportunity to return for a second season, citing the stress of the obligations of being a television personality. She currently resides in Burgundy, France with her family.”

    Now I’m picturing some kind of failed Food Network star protection and recovery program at a vineyard on the outskirts of Dijon.

    Rags

    The blessing and curse of Bravo is that, if you miss an episode of one of the network’s original programs, you simply aren’t trying very hard. It’s almost as easy as finding an airing of the Law and Order franchise. (The curse part is when they decide everyone wants to see The Real Housewives of Orange County over and over.)

    I’m still obsessively fascinated with Project Runway, and I’ve enjoyed the fourth season quite a bit. The contestants represent a really interesting mix of points of view, and they seem to have focused more on creative endeavor rather than attention-hogging drama.

    I thought the reunion show was really weird. It was like if Harold Pinter wrote a sketch comedy about a competitive reality program. Maybe it was the editing and the odd, long silences, or the fact that the lack of actual inter-contestant bitchery kind of forced them to re-frame things in ways that were dramatic enough to fill an hour. And while it’s really fun to see the customary reality-show demographic reversed (one straight guy among a sea of gays instead of the other way around), the “is Kevin really straight” clip package struck me as too much. (Seeing pictures of Michael Kors in all of his 1980s finery with a giant, golden man-perm was priceless, though.)

    Judging by the photos I’ve seen from the final Fashion Week shows, I hope Christian wins, though I find him obnoxious. I’ve found other finalists obnoxious and overconfident before, but Christian’s clothes are innovative but still seem like they’d translate into something a person might actually wear. His ego actually seems to be commensurate with his talent, with is a nice change of pace. (I’ve seen a few knowledgeable sources tar him as too derivative of Alexander McQueen, which could certainly work against him.) Rami’s clothes are beautiful, but they look too mature to me. It’s like he’s always dressing a high-end fund-raiser at a country club. I think both he and Jillian should have long careers as designers, because they’re both very talented, but I can’t see either of them winning.

    Phone rings, door chimes…

    They don’t do it as often as I’d like, but I do appreciate how PBS tries to keep me in productions of Stephen Sondheim musicals. Thanks to them, I’ve seen Sweeney Todd with Angela Lansbury, Sunday in the Park with George with Mandy Patinkin and Bernadette Peters, Into the Woods with Peters and Joanna Gleason, a lovely production of A Little Night Music by the New York City Opera (which doesn’t seem to be available on DVD, unfortunately), and Passion, which I only made it through part of but appreciated the opportunity to decide I didn’t care for it all the same.

    Tomorrow, they’re airing a filming of the recent revival of Company, staged by the brilliant John Doyle. I had the good fortune to see Doyle’s Broadway revival of Sweeney, starring Patti Lupone and Michael Cerveris, and aside from being knocked to the street in crosswalk in front of Rockefeller Center by stroller people on the way back to the hotel, it was one of the finest evenings of theatre I’ve ever enjoyed. (I think Doyle should do Night Music next. A character already plays the cello on stage, and those lieder singers can certainly double up as a mini-orchestra.)

    I don’t think I’ve ever seen a professional staging of Company, so I’m really looking forward to it. In fact, I think I’ve only ever seen a college production with a cast culled mostly from the opera program, which is… not how I would have gone. In my opinion, you can get away with not being able to sing or dance in a Sondheim musical, but an inability to act is absolutely fatal.

    And there’s a new staging of Sunday coming to Broadway. The director is profiled in this piece in The New York Times. Since Peters and Patankin are such distinct performers, I’ll be interested to see the response to Daniel Evans and Jenna Russell, as it will say something about how dependent the piece is on star charisma.

    Daisies chain

    Eee! The awesome and delightful Pushing Daisies has an on-line comic written by series creator Bryan Fuller and drawn by CAMERON STEWART. LOVE! (Okay, it’s not all drawn by Stewart, and the interface is kind of awful, but still…)